The Best in DFW

Nobu 

A recent meal at the Dallas outpost of famed chef Nobu Matsuhisa's global restaurant empire wowed us. Among many standouts were ankimo (foie gras-like monkfish liver); delicate avocado tempura; a beautiful spread of sashimi, including white tuna and suzuki (Japanese sea bass); and rock shrimp tempura in a creamy, spicy sauce. The room is dark and hip, though our favorite seat in the house is at the long sushi bar.

400 Crescent Court. 214-252-7000. www.noburestaurants.com. Full bar. $$$$.

Shinsei 

Shinsei's executive chef, Casey Thompson, found fame on last year's season of Top Chef, but chef Shuji "Elvis" Sugawara is the restaurant's sushi secret weapon. Among his specialties is the Elvis Mack, a roll made with Spanish mackerel, yuzu, olive oil, shiso leaf and Japanese cucumber. He composes a gorgeous sashimi plate, too. The sushi bar is right in the center of the action, and this place is almost always crowded, so come early or late.

7713 Inwood Road. 214-352-0005. www.shinseirestaurant.com. Full bar. $$$$.

Sushi Axiom 

No current star rating.

We recently checked out this place in anticipation of Sushi Axiom's new Dallas location. The menu includes a lovely array of fish varieties and fun but not too over-the-top rolls, such as Cherry Blossom Roll (shrimp tempura, crab and cucumber garnished with tuna). In the mood for something cooked? Look to more traditional Japanese entrees such as unagi don (smoked eel over rice) and sea bass with miso sauce. Sleek, flatteringly lighted interior.

4625 Donnelly Ave., Fort Worth. 817-735-9100. www.sushiaxiom.net. Full bar. $$$.

Sushi Sake 

This Richardson restaurant has established a well- deserved reputation as one of the area's most reliable sushi destinations. Its success could be attributed to the menu's smart diversity: Sushi generalist or thrill-seeker, everyone feels welcome. Keep the handwritten specials board in your line of vision for treats, including hamachi kama, the abundantly meaty yellowtail collarbone. And be sure to request an order of the restaurant's delicious Japanese pickles.

2150 N. Collins Blvd., Richardson. 972-470-0722. www.sushi-sake.com. Beer, wine and sake. $$$.

Tei Tei Robata Bar 

The sushi bar is literally center stage at this boisterous and perennial favorite. Order from the breadth of the menu here, including dishes (such as lobster and whole fish) cooked on the robata grill. The kitchen sometimes offers less common, seasonal Japanese fish for sushi and sashimi. When available, duck prosciutto with fig compote is a summery pleasure. Great sake selection: Try the smooth Wakatake Onikoroshi daiginjo for a splurge.

2906 N. Henderson Ave. 214-828-2400. www.teiteirobata.com. Full bar. $$$.

Teppo Yakitori and Sushi Bar 

When Teppo first opened, it mostly specialized in sushi, sashimi and yakitori (grilled skewers of chicken, duck and other meats). As the restaurant has matured, the daily changing list of seasonal small-plate specials has grown in prominence: Take your ordering cues from there, particularly if chawan mushi (savory custard) or chilled soup is being offered. Teppo is a perennial destination for many of the city's most discerning palates.

2014 Greenville Ave. 214-826-8989. www.teppo.com. Beer, wine and sake. $$$$.

Yutaka Sushi Bistro 

Yutaka is that gratifying rarity: a Japanese restaurant that doesn't pander to perceived American tastes. Chef-owner Yutaka Yamato may employ some American-gained creative freedom in his cooking, but his philosophy and techniques originate tangibly from Japan. Start with the Japanese Antipasto, savor the few exquisite bites of king crab tempura and shishito peppers in jalapeño vinaigrette and quiz your server about specials.

2633 McKinney Ave. 214-969-5533. www.yutakasushibistro.com. Beer, wine and sake. $$$-$$$$.

Zen Sushi 

You can order well from Zen's printed menu of sushi or sashimi, or choose from the creative cooked plates like miso-marinated black cod. But those in the know will tell you that the best way to order sushi is to put yourself in chef Michelle Carpenter's hands with an omakase meal of a dozen or so courses. Her take on marinated seafood ceviche (which might include yellowtail, snapper, tomato, avocado and Japanese persimmon) is singularly wonderful.

380 W. Seventh St. 214-946-9699. www.zensushidallas.com. Full bar. $$$-$$$$.