Nick Badovinus has quietly opened Neighborhood Services in the Lovers Lane space two blocks west of Inwood that formerly housed Rouge.

The personable and wildly energetic chef, who previously worked with restaurant impresario Tristan Simon as corporate chef of Consilient restaurant group ( Hibiscus, Fireside Pies, Cuba Libre, et al.), is happy to be getting his hands dirty at his new spot, crafting such staples as sausage and ricotta cheese on the premises and grinding his signature blend of chuck and brisket daily to make what he calls "a burger that bites you back a little."

Other offerings include flatbreads topped with smoky Italian speck ham; ribs and chicken wings slicked with a black coffee and ancho chile glaze; and a bacon-laden wedge salad topped with grated frozen Point Reyes blue cheese. "It's like Colorado powder of blue cheese on top of this iceberg wedge," he says with a laugh. "It's unbelievable; you don't know if you want to eat it or ski it."

Despite these uncommon touches, Mr. Badovinus says his new restaurant is just a cozy little neighborhood spot. "It's not trying to be anything too splashy and flashy," he says. "We don't want to blow anybody away with creativity; we just want to get someone something cold to drink, something hot to eat and love on them a little bit. The world is tough out there these days."

Tip of the hat

The restaurant scene at downtown's One Arts Plaza has been completed with the opening of Fedora. Executive chef David Peck's menu includes all the expected pizza and pasta dishes, along with a few surprises, such as grappa-cured salmon with pickled fennel and crispy capers and an "Italian tamale," made with polenta instead of masa. The restaurant, which is owned by Gina Campisi (of Campisi's pizza fame), is open for lunch and dinner.

Off the hook

Coast Global Seafood opened last week in Plano's Shops at Legacy development. The upscale, dinner-only concept, which specializes in simply prepared fresh fish dishes, recently hired Joshua Perkins (formerly of The Globe restaurant in Atlanta) to oversee the kitchen. Other notable names involved include restaurant designer Paul Draper , responsible for the dining room's vivid blue-and-white color scheme, and head honcho Michael Cox, who worked with Stephan Pyles at Star Canyon, AquaKnox and Taqueria Cañonita in the mid- to late '90s.

Graceful entrance

Downtown Fort Worth will be saying Grace in the coming week when the highly anticipated restaurant opens Monday evening. Chef Blaine Staniford , who made a name for himself locally at downtown Dallas' Fuse and the recently defunct Scene, presides over the menu of "modern American classics" that includes steaks, seafood and house- made pastas. The restaurant is owned by Adam Jones, previously with Del Frisco's.

Tex-Mex import

The Houston-based Los Cucos chain has made its area debut with a location in Plano at the Dallas North Tollway and Park Boulevard. Founded in 1991 by brothers Manuel and Sergio Cabrera, Los Cucos features an extensive menu of Tex-Mex standards, along with a somewhat unusual specialty dish: deep-fried meat-stuffed avocados. The new outpost takes over the large free-standing space abandoned several years ago by the upscale American Indian-themed Tenaya.

Punchy munchies

Good-for-you fare is the special du jour at Southpaw's Organic Cafe, where chef Luigi Troncoso dishes up sandwiches, salads and Middle Eastern sides such as hummus and tabbouleh, in addition to organic, agave-sweetened smoothies. The name refers to owner Reza Anvarian, an amateur boxer and native of the Republic of Azerbaijan in the South Caucasus.

Bits and bites

•  The Pyramid in downtown's Fairmont Hotel is getting into the holiday spirits with its introduction of a trio of new winter cocktails. The chilled seasonal drinks include the Deerfield Gold Ice Wine Martini, the Peppermint Crush and the tequila-based Pyramid Frost.
•  Cafe Toulouse has been named one of the Top 40 Cheap Eats in the U.S., according to Gayot's annual restaurant issue. The restaurant and travel guide praised Alberto Lombardi's Uptown restaurant for its Belgium-inspired French fare, including the steak frites, duck confit and crêpes filled with Calvados-laced apples.
• Oak Cliff's Belmont Hotel has teamed up with Austin-based hotel management company Bunkhouse Management for a renovation of the 1940s-era courtyard hotel. In addition to updates of guest rooms and common areas, the redo will include menu updates for the hotel's popular BarBelmont and the Cliff Cafe.

Kim Harwell is a Dallas food writer.